The art of wine by Sandro Chia

To make a great wine one needs
a madman to grow the vine,
a wise man to watch over it,
a lucid poet to make the wine,
a lover to drink it.
- Salvador Dali

Castello Romitorio is the sort of wine that sells itself. The Tuscan hilltop, the 12th century castle, the allure of the legendary Montalcino appellation, and the fact that the whole operation is run by one of Italy's most famous living artists: Sandro Chia. Sandro says that as soon as he bottled his first 'Romito del Romitorio' in 1984, he could not escape what he then realised were symbiotic passions - "the pursuit of an artistic perfection that displays itself not only on the painted canvas, but also in the glass". This may sound like the perfect line for a brand trying to cash in the reputation of its founder, but it reflects a truism that tells us as much about the wine industry as the great man himself.

It is an old adage that "the best way to make a small fortune is to start with a large fortune and set-up a winery". Sandro Chia is man whose art is exhibited all over the world, whose canvases and sculptures routinely sell for six figure sums - a man who is quite plainly not in the wine business for the money. Instead he is living the dream of pretty much everyone who loves fine wine – the Tuscan estate, the grapes, the viniculture. In the words of Sandro Chia: “We understand wine as the ultimate, seductive fusion of art and agriculture. I have heard some say that grapes are the language of Mother Earth is the – but her dialect is difficult to understand. It is up to us to interpret her and reveal our own character with her Bounty”.

The bottles are works of art and the wine itself is nothing short of magical. The Italians can’t get enough Morellino di Scansano and its always been a favourite of mine. On offer at under £10, I defy anyone to find an Italian red to better the Morellino di Scansano (2007) at this price point. Its big brother, the Morellino di Scansano ‘Ghiaccho Forte’ (2006) is even better. It has a wonderful dollop of syrah in the mix that provides a rounder, fuller palate, spicier overtones and an altogether more complex wine. I had the Brunello di Montalcino with my Christmas dinner and it doesn’t disappoint – a huge tannic wine of incredible structure rivalled only by the best Barolo’s. I decanted this in the morning and while it opened up nicely, the leftover glass I had that evening was as pleasurable as anything I drank over Christmas, suggesting that about 12 hours prior decanting will reward drinkers. I haven’t tried the Costanza or the ‘SuperTuscan’ Romito yet, but needless to say I’m looking forward to it. And when I grow up/win the lottery/sell enough wine, I want to be just like Sandro Chia.